Agra Fort India

Monument/Fort. By cruisingindia.com on Oct 28, 2006.

Agra Fort Images

Agra Fort History

Conceived and built by the third Mughal emperor, Akbar, the Agra Fort in its current ‘avatar’ was shaped up by his grandson and the fifth heir, Shah Jahan. Akbar’s son, Emperor Jahangir constructed some of the buildings within the sprawling crescent-shaped fort complex. Thus, three generations of Mughal rulers hallmarked their architectural forte within the walls of the Agra Fort. Akbar laid the foundation to the red sand stone structure, meant as a military base across the banks of the River Yamuna in 1565. By 1571, the completed complex under the aegis of Shah Jahan served as a palace and court. The buildings within the fort complex therefore amalgamate different architectural styles borrowed from various cultures that coexisted during the Mughal reign.

History depicts that the walled fort has retained the irregular outline of the demolished mud-wall fort of the Lodis - the Afghan dynasty which surrendered under the might of the first Mughal Emperor Babur, who in the 16th century built his fiefdom in and around Delhi and Agra.

The historian, Abul Fazl mentions the existence of five hundred buildings within the fort complex. What remains today are the walls and the gateways and few of the original ‘Akbari’ structures (structures built by Akbar). Shah Jahan demolished most of the original sandstone buildings, re-modeled some and built his own marble palaces.

In later years, the fort served as a living mausoleum for Shah Jahan who lay lamenting for his beloved queen, Mumtaz Mahal when put under house arrest by his son Aurangzeb. Stretched across 2.5 km alongside the River Yamuna and northwest to the Taj Mahal, the fort offered a perfect view of the Taj Mahal.

Agra Fort Outer Layout

The fort is circular in shape with its colossal double walls that rise 20 m in height with a circumference of 2.5 m. The periphery of the fort is said to have bearings of four gates enclosed by a double barricaded wall of red sand stone. The fort is also surrounded by a decaying moat. The lofty fortifications of the fort cast a protective shadow over the far stretched princely mansions built along the riverfront. The red sandstone wall runs 2.5 km around the perimeter of the fort and is characterized by two prominent ‘Akbari’ gates –The Delhi Gate and the Lahore Gate (popular as Amar Singh Gate) to the south. In the days of Mughal glory, the grandest entrance to the fort was said to be through the Delhi Gate in the west wall. Considered as the original entry- point, the Delhi gate is embellished with inlay work in white marble, proof to the richness and power of the Great Mughals.

The military nature of the Agra Fort is retained even today with the seventh Rajputana Rifles order of the Indian Army holding fort within the northern portions of the complex. Consequently, visitor entry is restricted through the Delhi Gate. Entry is permitted strictly through the Lahore Gate, so called as it faces the direction of Lahore, a city in current day Pakistan.

Visitors can access the fort through a low outer wall and gate at the south end of the complex. This gate is said to have been built by Aurangzeb, Akbar’s great grandson, leads successively to the two main ‘Akbari’ gates and inwards to the inner portal called the Hathi Pol or Elephant Gate.

Agra Fort Architecture

Historians consider the Agra Fort as a prototype to all future Mughal forts that Akbar duly constructed in Lahore, Allahabad, also the Fatehpur Sikri in Agra. Built between 1565 and 1571, the Agra Fort exhibits distinguishing architectural styles of the three Mughal Emperors who ruled from the fort - Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan. In its current remains, the fort exposes atrocities faced from various rulers and clans on its architecture which steals some of the opulence from the original structures. The fort faced tremendous destruction from the Jat Clan who lifted off the marble and pietra durra pillars for their own palaces towards the end of the Mughal rule.

Visitors get to see just one of the original surviving ‘Akbari’ palaces within the complex situated south of the Lahore Gate. The last demeaning step was taken when the British sent the royal baths to London to be exhibited in the palaces of the queen. The British also destroyed many of the buildings within the complex and replaced them with ugly army barracks.

Nonetheless, there are enough remnants for visitors to fathom the artistic lure and splendor of the three reigning Mughal rulers - Akbar, Jahangir and Shah Jahan within this walled complex.

The Jahangiri Mahal Most buildings within the fort complex assimilate different architectural styles ranging from the Persian to the local Hindu styles as was the blend during Akbar’s era as represented in the ruins of the ‘Jahangiri Mahal’ or Jahangir’s Palace. Thereafter, most structures are predominantly Islamic. The rest of the construction within the fort lay sealed by Shah Jahan’s fascination for lustrous marble as he did away with the use of robust sand stone, ending his grandfather’s architectural stamp.

Jahangiri Mahal is considered to be the most notable of Akbar’s contribution and the only surviving ‘Akbari’ structure within the walled complex. Entry through the Amar Singh Gate (Lahore Gate) from the south of the complex leads to the ‘Jahangiri Mahal’. Built around 1570, Akbar is said to have dedicated this palace to his son Salim, who later took the title of ‘Jahangir’.

Scholars and historians dispute the fact that the palace might not have been named Jahangiri Mahal during Akbar’s lifetime, as young Jahangir was then known as Salim. Also, the layout of the palace, with its rooms opening onto an inner courtyard, is more on the lines of a harem and is said to be the prime ‘Zenana Mahal’ or palace for women belonging to the royal household. This palace was used primarily by the Hindu Rajput wives of Akbar. Stone ‘jalis’ or partitions screen the passageways used by the women of the household. An open porch overlooks the river while finely carved columns and niches stand tall in the rooms. It is rumored that the powerful Nur Jahan, Jahangir’s queen might have used the palace during his reign.

A magnificent gateway leads into a courtyard surrounded by stone carved grand halls, heavily fashioned brackets, landing place and crossbeams. There are odds and ends of decoration in gold and blue done in the prevalent Persian style.

The outer walls of the Jahangiri Mahal portray a façade of canopied arches carved and highlighted in marble. The rooms enclose an inner courtyard with halls to the north and south. The courtyard halls are fashioned in the Gujarat-Malwa-Rajasthan tradition, influenced by the early 16th century architecture of Raja Man Singh of Gwalior. In the Jahangiri Mahal, Akbar attempted to bring together ornate Hindu motifs in harmony with symmetrical Islamic designs.

Khas Mahal This famous structure within the fort complex was Shah Jahan’s luxurious personal palace exemplifying one of the best paintings on marble. In 1636, Shah Jahan built the Khas Mahal which was his own private luxurious abode. This was where his devout elder daughter Jahanara lived and served him during the last days of his life. Shah Jahan added two golden pavilions flanking each other and topped it with curbed Bengal-Hut styled roof in this palace.

Anguri Bagh, the hypothetical Garden Of Grapes-Laid out in front of the Khas Mahal, the Anguri Bagh garden is an airy palace garden set apart by delicate arches, fountains and tapering turrets overlooking the river. The Anguri Bagh is a typical Mughal garden with no real vines but carved geometric flower beds, water channels and fountains in the traditional Islamic engravings of fours The Jasmine Tower or the Mussaman Burj To the north-east corner of the Anguri Bagh is the Mussaman Burj, the octagonal tower, also known as Jasmine Tower. A doorway from the rear of the Diwan-i-Khas leads to the Mussaman Burj. This two-storied pavilion was Shah Jahan’s last residence. Here the dying Shah Jahan glanced at the Taj Mahal one last time.

Enclosed by a balcony, the elegant chamber is characterized by lattice screen handrails with ornamental slots. A marble ‘chhatri’ or umbrella on top symbolizes the glory of its King. Crowned with a copper dome, this tower when placed on a citadel provides a scenic view of the River Yamuna.

A beautiful building, the Mussaman Burj is also considered the most romantic and ornamental pavilion which was home to two of the most beautiful and powerful Mughal Empresses – Emperor Jahangirs’s queen Nur Jahan and Shah Jahan’s beloved queen Mumtaz Mahal. The elegant and flawless pietra dura on and within the walls and columns is delicately designed and indeed fit for a queen.

Diwan-i-Khas The Mussaman Burj leads up to the Diwan-i-Khas where important matters of state were conducted. The ‘Diwan-i-Khas’ or the hall of private audience was where kings and dignitaries were received by the reigning emperor.

Situated close to the Chitor gate, this private hall was installed in 1568. Completed in 1637, this open hall has extravagant carved columns and arches with marble inlay work, also carvings in relief. On one end of its terrace stand the white and black marble thrones used by Jahangir during his realm. Legend says that Jahangir as the young rebellious Prince Salim had procured the black throne in Allahabad to chide his father Emperor Akbar.

Overlooking the Diwan-i-Khas terrace is the courtyard, Machhi Bhavan directing into the garden in front that once enclosed ornamental fish ponds. The ‘Macchi Bhawan’ or fish enclosure housed the harems and included pools and fountains in the days of yore. It was here that the ladies of the court held their special bazaars and festivals. Diwan-i-Am The west of Machhi Bhavan leads down to the ‘Diwan-i-Am’ or the hall of public audience where commoners and petitioners sought consultations with the Emperor. The hall is a well proportioned building arcade with three rows of curved arches supported by slender pillars. On the rear wall is a richly decorated alcove bearing Shah Jahan’s ornamental Peacock Throne where he sat dispensing justice, consulted on state matters, made pronouncements and heard petitions from commoners. Legend says the famed Peacock Throne was once embedded with the gleaming gem Kohinoor.

The three mosques Pushed away by the west wall is the ‘Mina Masjid’ or the heavenly mosque, where Shah Jahan prayed when imprisoned in the fort by his son, Aurangzeb. Entry is strictly restricted to visitors to the mosque.

‘Moti Masjid’ or the pearl mosque was Shah Jahan’s private place of worship. This mosque with its three domes in white marble rises above the red sandstone peripheral wall and is famous for its sheer grandeur and perfect proportions.

The ‘Nagina Masjid’ or gem Mosque was designed for the ladies of the court. Located near this mosque is the ‘Zenana Mina Bazaar’ or ladies bazaar where female merchants traded their wares. Legend has it that it was here that Shah Jahan glimpsed Mumtaz Mahal and fell in love with her.

Other Structures The other structures include the ‘Naubat Khana’ or the drum house where the emperor’s musicians enthralled audiences. ‘Rang Mahal’ was the living quarters of the Emperor, his wives and mistresses. The ‘Shahi Burj’ was Shah Jahan’s private work area. The famous ‘Sheesh Mahal’ or glass palace is the royal dressing room and has delicate and tiny mirrored glass mosaic decorations embedded on its walls. The ‘Hammam-i-Shahi’ or the royal bath and the ‘Akbari Mahal’ are some of the other notable structures within the fort.

The various palaces thus exhibit grandeur in design and is a combination of styles, some distinctly Mughal while designs for some structures like the Jahangiri Mahal is entirely Hindu in character.

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